Sunday, September 8th | 2024 | Day 11
It was another early morning with the van departing at eight for our first excursion to the Oltrarno—literally, the other side of the Arno. The skies were grey and heavy, but didn’t suggest a downpour was imminent.
Our first stop was Piazza Michelangelo. At the center, another copy of the David—this one in bronze—its dark patina provided splendid contrast against the clouds. No offense to Michelangelo, but the main attraction was a panoramic view of Florence. To the left, a public park and the Boboli gardens connected to Palazzo Pitti spilled greenery down the hillside. Front and center, the skyline was of course dominated by Palazzo Vecchio, the dome of the Cappella Medici, and Santa Maria del Fiore. With a few minutes left to take it all in, the bells from Santa Croce to the Duomo to Santo Spirito, rang out. It was a truly magical moment.
Minas was an Armenian prince traveling with, or serving in the Roman army, who decided to become a hermit. In 250 CE, he was brought before Emperor Decius—well known for cruel treatment of Christians—for spreading his faith and refusing to make sacrifices to the Roman gods. According to legend, several attempts to execute Minas were carried out—being put into a furnace, stoned, and fed to wild beasts in the amphitheater—through all of which he remained unscathed. Beheaded in the presence of the emperor near what is today Piazza della Signoria, Minas, or Miniato in Italian, picked up his head and walked across the Arno to return to his hermitage on Monte di Firenze.
A shrine was built, followed by a chapel as early as the 8th century. Dedicated to the first Christian martyr of Florence, San Miniato del Monte is considered one of the finest Romanesque basilicas in Tuscany. Given its hilltop position, it is also considered one of the most picturesque in all of Italy.
Still an active place of worship, on this particular Sunday a visiting bishop was delivering mass. A few of us glanced in but we weren’t able to enter. While disappointing, it was another place I will be sure to return to during my next trip. On the way back to the van, I noticed a sign board with dates for upcoming concerts as well as Gregorian chants. Hearing chants at one of the oldest sacred spaces in the city was definitely something I wanted to experience.
It was a short drive from the southern end of the city to Fiesole just north of Florence. The town is situated on two of three successive hills. The third of which is most renowned as the location where Leonardo da Vinci—or rather his assistant—tested an early design for human flight. Fortunately, no more was suffered than a broken arm.
Fiesole was small, family friendly, and absolutely charming with its central square ringed by restaurants and the Duomo di San Romolo. We passed by the facade of the church to Museo Civico Archeologico. A short descent opened onto an ancient Roman theater that is still being used for live music and theatrical performances. This connection of the ancient past continuing into the present was nothing other than mind blowing.
Further down, various pools and infrastructure of a public bath house remained clearly delineated amidst the ruins. This once was one of the central hubs of daily life where people met to socialize, relax, and of course, wash away dust, soot, and sweat—byproducts of industrious labor and a solid day’s work.
The Romans were building upon an even older foundation. Walking through stands of olive trees, remains of what is believed to be an Etruscan temple emerged. The layering of cultures, histories, and people going back to the very earliest of civilizations is one of the main aspects that draws me to Italy in particular, and Europe overall.
The group made its way back up the hill to the Archeological Museum, partly on what remained of a road laid by the Romans. Similar to the Museo dell’ Accademia Etrusca in Cortona, there was plenty to see without being overwhelmed.
One of the difficulties faced by archeologists is making clear delineations between that which is distinctly Etruscan and what is definitively Roman, especially as time moved on. Early Etruscan artifacts are distinct in style and material. It is also certain their civilization predates Rome. However, once the eternal city had been established and the Romans grew in strength and numbers, at some point the two cultures became inextricably mixed. One theory to explain the disappearance of the mysterious Etruscans is that they were eventually absorbed into the expanding Roman Republic.
After the museum, it was time for lunch. We crossed back through Piazza Mino, and were a bit early so everyone had a few minutes to meander before being seated at Terrazza 45. It was yet another delectable meal of smoked mozzarella salad, two types of pasta, and their signature flan for dessert. I was getting well accustomed to being spoiled by all the fresh local cuisine.
The van returned us to PopArtment mid-afternoon and those grey, heavy morning skies finally broke open. I spent the rest of the day at home, with a cool breeze and sounds of the storm providing inspiration while I journaled.
