Saturday, August 31st | 2024 | Day 3
One of my less-than-guilty pleasures is not waking up to an alarm. A luxury I am only afforded on Sundays and while on vacation. I slept until about 9:30 and considered going “into town” to take some photos and continue exploring.
I brought a cross body bag that was large enough to carry valuables and a few essential items as well as a backpack. Florence has long been known for its fine leather and a nice bag was on my short list of items to keep an eye out for. After looking online at shops that specialized in local craftsmanship, hunger took over and I set out for breakfast.
Back to Il Ghiottone. After receiving my cappuccino and a savory pastry, I noticed the back patio which I hadn’t seen during previous visits. It was covered and quiet, away from both the bustling activity in the caffè and various forms of traffic circling the roundabout.
One of the ladies from our group, Maxine, was already seated. I asked if she would like company, and we had a lovely conversation. Prior to retirement, she had been a theological scholar and worked at a Seminary alongside her late husband who was a pastor. I shared a bit about my kids, career, and vision for what the future held after being laid off the month prior.
Once sated with food and conversation, Maxine said she was going to get some supplies for the apartment from one of the nearby stores. I decided to tag along out of both curiosity and desire for company. The grocer just off San Jacopino square was small, but well stocked. Mainly with canned, jarred, and dried goods, plenty of pasta, as well as fresh produce, meats, and cheese. It had everything one would need for a quick stop after work to conjure up a delicious dinner.
Next stop was the wine store, Vigna Vittoria. Another neighborhood treasure, there were four stools around the bar, which made for intimate gatherings late into the evening. Behind the bar, about twelve taps featured local varietals with a chalkboard overhead listing each. The narrow space was filled with bottles from Tuscany and beyond on one side and boxed wine on the other. Don’t knock it til you try it. Laden with groceries, water, and wine, I was glad to help Maxine with the heavy bags.
Not feeling ambitious enough to venture out, I decided to take it easy and spent most of the afternoon journaling. After a couple glasses of wine and jetlag catching up with me, a nap was another welcome luxury. Viva la dolce vita!
When I woke up, I felt a bit tired and quiet before meeting with the group for dinner. After a brief presentation from our director about where to shop for high quality items and how to avoid cheap imported knockoffs, we set out. Taking the tram, this would be the first diversion from our normal route to Stazione Unità with a transfer to the T1 line.
We disembarked a couple stops later and walked past Fortezza da Basso. Built by the Medici from 1534 to 1537, as scrutiny and suspicion over their fiduciary practices rose, Nadia asked us to consider why cannons placed on the ramparts faced towards Florence. After being ejected, it was meant to protect a powerful family that dominated Florentine banking and politics, for fear of retribution from its citizens, rather than as a bulwark of protection for those citizens from outside invasion by rival city-states such as Sienna and Pisa.
Nadia led us to Piazza dell’Indipendenza where Emma joined the group to explain its history and significance. Constructed in the 19th century, it celebrates the struggle for Italian unification, which reached its climax on April 27, 1859. From a palace window at the north end of the square, Grand Duke Leopold II of Tuscany waved a white handkerchief to signify his abdication.
Though united under il Tricolore, remnants of pasts both ancient and contemporary aren’t difficult to find. From ruins of the Roman era and earlier, to regional customs, to cuisines often told through myriad shapes of pasta, as well as dialects that persist to this day. These are only several of many aspects that make the history and culture of Italy so fascinating.
From the piazza and history lesson, we continued walking towards our destination for dinner. In the moment, it seemed to be quite a ways. Partly out of hunger, partly out of being eager for the next experience, partly out of having felt a bit low key throughout the day.
Upon arrival, there was little to disappoint. While unassuming from the street, the interior of Ristorante da Mimmo was richly decorated with corbeled ceilings and mythological scenes painted on the walls. A true, four course Italian meal was served. Almost at once, plates of antipasto began appearing. Along with the traditional salami and cheese came bruschetta pomodoro, and pere con pecorino. All accompanied by perhaps the most celebrated wine of the region—Chianti. For primi, paccheri with eggplant, tomato, and pecorino. Followed by tender, thinly sliced beef and vegetables for secondi. The fourth course was dolce of course. A delicious panna cotta drizzled with a sweet seasonal berry compote.
Plates, wine, and stories were passed around the table. Glenn and Joan showed pictures of close encounters with wildlife while on safari. Bill and Anahi’s extensive travels included scavenger hunts that spanned the globe. Jim and Linda shared their excursions to Istanbul and Egypt. Deborah told tales of her life in foreign lands as a diplomat. Maxine had been far and wide in pursuit of theological discovery.
While I loved hearing everyone’s adventures and was grateful to be among seasoned companions, I have to admit I also felt a bit envious. This was my first trip abroad and as my fiftieth birthday rapidly approached, I started to feel like time was running out. Don’t get me wrong, this trip was an amazing experience. But I don’t want it to be a once-in-a-lifetime thing. So much wonder and mystery remains in the world. So much we have to celebrate in common, and opportunities for strangers to become fast friends around every bend in the road.
